Hanoi has shaken off its hostile attitude to travellers to become one of the most beguiling cities in Southeast Asia. It's slow-paced and pleasant, with a lovely landscape of lakes, shaded boulevards, verdant public parks and French-colonial architecture.

Hanoi personifies the spirit of historic Vietnam in the temples, monuments and pockets of ancient culture along the narrow streets of the Old Quarter, yet perfectly reflects the rap changes sweeping the country as Hanoian yuppies sip cappucinos in roadse cafés and compare cell phones.

When To Go

There is really no bad season to visit Hanoi. The city offers countless attractions that can be seen year-round, and the climate is generally agreeable.

Tourist season runs from late June through August and October through Tet, the New Year's celebration that takes place in late January or early February. Though accommodations and transportation are bound to be booked around Tet, it's worth making the effort to see Hanoi dressed up for the festivities.

Vietnamese tend to travel in the summer and around Tet, making public transportation that much more difficult to book.